First high-fuss standard: use chunks of meat, never ground.
Second high-fuss standard: grind your own spices.

You want slivers of meat approximately one-quarter inch thick with the width and length of about half a square US postage stamp. Your butcher, if you have one, will be perplexed at this request. Best strategy, buy stew meat, then cut the chunks down much smaller. A sharp knife facilitates this (a dull knife is actually more dangerous than a sharp one, since it can slip).

The meat (about three pounds) should not be too lean. I usually try to make at least a pound pork, with my ideal trio a pound each of pork (for the fat), beef (for the center) and buffalo (for the flavor). If pork is not on your allowed meats list make sure you’re putting in some fat from the other meats.

To grind my dried chilies and spices, I use a coffee grinder I keep just for this purpose. I use a disposible face mask and disposible sanitary gloves, because I’m talking serious chilies that will give you nose bleeds.

Amounts are approximate, as tastes differ, but a good mix would be:
–one tablespoon cumin seeds – more to taste
–one tablespoon black peppercorns
–half teaspoon dried juniper berries
–one dried hababero pepper
–three dried ancho chilies
–further dried red chilies, mild or hot, to taste

Grind together thoroughly. Store carefully. Don’t breathe in dust.
New Mexico dried chilies are absolutely the best; available at Whole Foods and specialty stores. A few packages of dried chilies last years. One tip: avoid chipotles, since their smoked flavor can overpower. A nice variety of chilies will add complex fruit as well as heat.

If in doubt about heat, use a light hand with the chilies, but don’t be stingy with the cumin, the real taste of chili. Never add hot sauce to chili.

Once these exacting standards for the meat and chilies have been met, the rest of the process leaves a great number of options. I use a large heavy-bottom pot, in my case a cast iron Le Creuset (since I believe everyone needs a $300 pot). I dice two large onions, and sweat them in oil at moderate heat. I throw in a conservative dose of garlic a few minutes later (for me, two cloves max; garlic too early risks burning and turning bitter). I may put in diced green bell pepper, but not much, since I avoid anything that can be too watery. I will add little dollops of chicken broth as I sweat the aromatics until I get a nice caramelization: at least ten minutes. I then add enough chicken broth to wet the mixture again, carefully mix in the ground spices and chilies, salt by feel, then add the meat slivers. I mix it all up thoroughly, then LEAVE IT ALONE for several hours to simmer on low heat, adding chicken broth if it seems to risk dryness, but not with a heavy hand. Adjust salt to taste, but be careful not to over-salt as mixture concentrates. I use the not-too-salty natural broth so as not to inadvertently over-salt.

Now some chili purists may say NO BEANS and NO TOMATOES. I myself will never add these. I think, however, that if you want to add them, just do it, but use quality ingredients. I also like the chili on its own, but if you want to serve it over rice or sprinkle with cheddar, that’s OK.

As to the best wine with chili, I believe it is Negra Modelo. That is, of course, a dark Mexican beer, and not a wimp beer at that. A spicy, in-your-face Shiraz may also suit, but then you wouldn’t get to drink the Negra Modelo.

The goal of my recipe for chili is that it should put hair on your chest, but only if you are male. The result is opposite with females: it burns hair OFF the chest, which I believe is still a desirable result.

The chili stores well, freezes well, and improves with age.

For my part, i’m o-fer in the chili dept.

Congrats on the Jets win. Even all the ESPN guys are now saying “Watch out for the Jets.” Thanks for humiliating the Packers. I consider it payback for them beating the Lions at home. We see them again in two weeks, and, hopefully the Lions will open a fresh, new, air-sealed can of whoop azz on the Cheese Heads.

QOTD: I think I told you my wife is a chef, she is supposed to e-mail me a recipe that she uses. I’ve made it, but can’t remember all the ingredients. I will follow up about that one. Here’s a chicken chili recipe that I really enjoy. It goes great with a full-bodied red.

ingredients

* 2 tablespoons cooking oil
* 1 onion, chopped
* 2 cloves garlic, minced
* 1 pound skinless chicken thighs (about 4), cut into thin strips (leftover turkey or chicken can be substituted for the chicken thighs)
* 4 teaspoons chili powder
* 1 tablespoon ground cumin
* 2 teaspoons dried oregano
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 2 jalapeño peppers, seeds and ribs removed, chopped
* 1 1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes with their juice
* 2 1/2 cups canned low-sodium chicken broth or homemade stock
* 1 2/3 cups drained and rinsed pinto beans (from one 15-ounce can)
* 1 2/3 cups drained and rinsed black beans (from one 15-ounce can)
* 1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
* 1/3 cup chopped cilantro (optional)

directions

1. In a large saucepan, heat the oil over moderately low heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook until they start to soften, about 3 minutes.

2. Increase the heat to moderate and stir in the chicken strips. Cook until they are no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chili powder, cumin, oregano, and salt. Add the jalapeños, the tomatoes with their juice, and the broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.

3. Uncover the saucepan and stir in the beans and black pepper. Simmer until the chili is thickened, about 15 minutes longer. Serve topped with the cilantro.

CHRIS FROM NY, buy a case of San Felipe Cabernet Sauvignon. A lot of value for 7 bones a bottle!